The Glory Days of Old Manila

Behind the noise, pollution and filth that characterize Manila’s busy and traffic-choked streets and alleys, there is the memory and allure of a glorious past.

For, the glory of Old Manila, once declared the capital by the Spanish conquistadores, lay not merely in the presence of promenaders frequenting the Luneta (their favorite paseo or plaza, now known as the Rizal Park) and riding horse-drawn carriages that cruised past lamp posts.

Rather, its glory lay in its ancient and storied churches and well-kept surroundings, as well as in the manner by which people conducted themselves. Residents were honest and peace-loving people, elected to their posts by their peers without having to resort to chicanery and deception. Even the public officials knew the meaning of self-sacrifice and lived it.

Influential churches

Catholicism was introduced in 1521 when the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan set foot on Philippine soil. The Philippines was then under Spanish colonial rule for more than 300 years. Churches in Manila were built and designed under the supervision of the Franciscans, and they were considered the most prominent, if not imposing, structures then.

Old Manila originally comprised the Walled City that was Intramuros (inside the city walls) and was later extended beyond the Pasig River northward. Massive houses of worship were a stone’s throw from one another enabling the faithful to conveniently observe religious traditions. One of them was the popular Holy Week ritual, visita iglesia (which means “church visit”), in which a devotee visits and prays in at least seven churches either on Holy Thursday or Good Friday.

It was said that Intramuros echoed to the pealing of bells from its numerous churches. One of these was the Manila Cathedral where solemn ceremonies in honor of the Immaculate Conception, its patroness, were held. It was also once noted for its College of Boys Choir, then the only private music school for boys.

Within walking distance was the San Agustin Church, the oldest church in the country, famous for its rich library and music. It has withstood the devastation of a world war, a revolution and countless earthquakes. The remains of Miguel Lopez de Legaspi who founded Manila are entombed in the crypt of this church. Its vestry was also where the terms of the surrender of Manila were signed to end the Spanish-American War when the Americans occupied the city in 1898.

The La Naval Shrine of Santo Domingo (now located on Quezon Avenue in Quezon City), whose first chapel was inaugurated in Intramuros in 1588, became the center of national devotions to Our Lady of the Rosary, made doubly famous by an angelic choir called Tiples de Santo Domingo.

Devotees (not necessarily the fanatical and nominal kind) came in droves to attend a flower festival in Ermita, in the heart of Manila, known as Bota Flores in honor of the Nuestra Señora de Guia (Our Lady of Guidance). This petite statue (20” tall) is the oldest Marian image in the country, enshrined at the Ermita parish church. It was officially crowned by Pope Paul VI during his visit to the Philippines in November 1970.

Refined manners

What separates the old from the present-day Manileños is not so much their religious ardor as the way they behaved at home and in public places.  The former were a more civilized and decent lot than today.

A religious lay leader and writer of note described the Manileños of old thus:

Dignified social traits, sedate lifestyle and performance of civic duties embellished the good image of the people of Old Manila. Children were exemplars in discipline at home and in school, courteous and respectful towards elders and knowledgeable about civics and religion.

He said the men did not sit down at table in plain undershirts or shorts. Rather,

They doffed their hats to women and showed chivalry in public places and eateries. Women, on the other hand, could not be seen rude in conduct and language or wearing pants, shorts and tight-fitting clothes…there was a pervading aura of refinement of manners, courtesy in social relations, abiding care for honesty and physical cleanliness, and enduring fervor in religious life.

True enough, Old Manila had no police or traffic officers lurking on street corners waiting to extort money from unsuspecting motorists. There were no children sniffing rugby glue or snatchers and motorcycle-riding robbers ready to prey on hapless commuters and pedestrians.  There was no indecent activity in parks, no polluted waterways and no unsightly shacks near the massive Intramuros walls which, history tells us, took some 200 years to build.

Five hundred years

As Filipino Catholics anticipate the quincentenary of Catholicism in the Philippines in 2021, this writer wonders if Old Manila (which for more than 300 years was then known as the “Noble and Ever Loyal City”) could ever be brought back to its illustrious state.

For that we must all pray.